Eger, Hungary – The Valley of the Beautiful Woman
Just a two hour train ride away from Budapest, lies the picturesque medieval city of Eger. With its stunning castle, Baroque Basilica and Observatory and Science centre, you won’t be sorry you made the journey. The city even has a Beatles museum! But historically, it was heavily influenced by both the Magyars and Turks, and is most famous for the battle in 1551. During this battle, István Dobó and his 2000 soldiers held the Castle against and estimated 150,000 Ottoman invaders, securing his place in Hungarian history.
Eger’s place in wine history comes from its association with this battle. Legend maintains that István Dobó, ordered red wine to be brought from the castle cellars to lift the spirits of the Hungarian soldiers. The Turks, witnessing the red fluid lying in their enemies beards and their fighting prowess soon began to believe the soldiers were drinking the blood of bulls. And just like that Egri Bikavér was born. This rich red wine is a blend of at least four grape varieties (none of which can be more than 50% of the wine) from: Kékfrankos, Kadarka, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zewigelt, Portugieser, Pinot Noir, Syrah and others.
Eger lies firmly in wine producing territory in the shadow of the Bukk Mountain range just a little further North. The region is often compared to Burgundy and it has a cool, continental climate and limestone and clay soils. Many vineyards (around 14,000 acres worth) produce a roughly even (55% red) balance of red and white wines. It is of course possible to visit many of these vineyards, but to maximise your time in Eger, there is another option.
The Valley of the Beautiful Woman
Lying about a 10 minute taxi ride or 30 minute walk from the centre of Eger is the unique cellar row of the Szépasszony Valley, or Valley of the Beautiful Woman. Whether you believe the Valley was named after an ancient goddess, a beautiful woman who sold Hungarian wine or a stunner from the Town’s villa, is less important than enjoying the wine on offer in the 48 cellars which encircle a central square. The cellars are built into the rock face, and many go down many metre beyond their modest looking exteriors.
I have visited now on three occasions, but have not visited all 48 cellars. All cellars are numbered so you can easily identify them. Those with lower numbers are generally more traditional, and those with higher numbers more modern in style. The quality of the wine typically improves with the higher numbers as well.
It is possible to spend many hours here exploring, sampling wines, chatting with winemakers. And in most cases this is a relatively inexpensive experience. 100ml of wine can be purchased for less than a dollar, euro or pound. And I can honestly say, even at those prices, none of them have been bad wines. Some of the wineries do tastings, but pretty much all of them sell by the glass. A number have food options and there are a number of restaurants in the Valley as well.
So from my experience, here are some you may want to call into:
Wine selection Biro es Fia
Number 2: Biro & Fia Pincészet – Very traditional with 10-12 different types of wine in a range of styles. The lady here speaks very little English, but has a warmth of character that means it doesn’t matter. A great winery to get your visit started. And hospitality 10 out of 10.
Number 14: Kiss Pincészet – Nice atmosphere and friendly staff. There is a nice sweet red wine here which is worth a try if you enjoy sweet wines – its a bit different to the Tokaj Aszu you may have been drinking in Budapest. Has an outdoor terrace area which is nice in the sun.
Number 27: Farsang Pincészet – Owner very friendly. Produces some very nice dry white wines which are definitely worth trying. The wines are all stored in decanters on the counter, and the price to quality ratio is very good here. You will struggle to spend a lot!
Number 29: Besenyei – On the day I was there, two younger staff on the bar, both really friendly and willing to talk to me about the wines. Quite a chilled out vibe. The owner was really friendly too – photo below of all of us just before I left.
Number 30: Termelői borkimérés – This one is different in that it has a nice roof terrace which on a nice day gives a lovely view over the Valley. Indoors it has a nice basic wine bar feel. Wines here were very drinkable. The approach of the staff was to minimise interaction, so if you’re after an efficient service, and then want to be left alone this is probably your place.
Number 37: Bolyki Pincészet – OK I’ll confess to not having been here (not through lack of trying!), but I have been to their actual vineyard. What I can say is the quality of the wines here are very good. If you don’t have time for an actual vineyard tasting, be sure to call in.
Wine decanters at Farsang
With the staff at Besenyei
Number 40: Juhász Pince – It looks like a castle from the outside, and I would say this is one of the wineries where you can find some good quality wines. Prices are very reasonable and the staff have always been friendly when I have been in. You will find a variety of wines in all styles to enjoy here.
Number 46: Tóth Ferenc – One of the best. Serious quality wines, for which you can expect to pay a little more. Has more of a wine bar feel to it. I’d suggest doing a vertical tasting of Bikaver here so you can see the variations between vintages (production years).
Number 47: Petrény Völgy – Another of the best offerings in the valley. Serious wines, and a great selection of pre-structured tastings direct from the menu. I had a great tasting here. Be sure not to leave this one until the end, but do it while your palette is still fresh to get the most out of it!
So there you have it, my guide to the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. Some tips: You can take a taxi from Eger for around 3,000 Forints each way – just ask the cellars to call one for your return trip. In the summer a mini train runs form the city centre to the Valley hourly. Personally, I didn’t really want to do an hour of sightseeing on my way to the valley, but it might be a really good way to explore the city and sort out your transport to the Valley in one go! Don’t forget to check out the food options while you are there as well.
You won’t regret taking a train journey to Eger. Whether its for the castle, churches and museums, or just for the Valley of the Beautiful Woman, its a small city that punches well above its weight. While I enjoy solo travelling, the Valley probably would be enhanced by visiting as a couple or a group, but I wouldn’t be put off by going on your own. So have I tempted you to visit? Let me know if you do! In the meantime, keep exploring this beautiful planet we live on, one glass at a time!