Hungary: The Etyek Budai Region
For most people Budapest conjures up images of the meandering Danube, lined with neo-gothic architecture, hearty paprika inspired dishes and thermal spas. Tragically, most people who visit the city, only do so for a few days. And so barely scratch the surface of what it has to offer. Even fewer manage to venture outside it to the area which surrounds it. The city of ruin bars, Palinka, Unicum and fröccs (wine with soda water), does not instantly project the vibe of being part of a wine region. Certainly not one which is in many ways comparable with the Champagne region in France.
However, if we were to travel back 100 years in time, it would have been possible to visit thriving vineyards not far from the centre of the city. In fact there are still some vineyards within the outer districts of the city today. Most visitors are surprised to discover that literally 30 minutes drive from Budapest, there are in fact multiple thriving vineyards, many of which are open to the public.
Heading West from Budapest, the town of Etyek has become a centre for small boutique wineries. Here you will find both still and sparkling wines which are deceptively quaffable. And in some cases they rival some of the best producers in the world. The region is one of the coolest climate regions in Hungary, and shares some important characteristics with Champagne in France. These include its limestone soil, the fact it sits between the 47th and 50th latitude. It also shares cooling winds which create a microclimate ideal for growing acidic white grape varieties.
Probably the main reason why you probably won’t have heard of wines from this region is communism. During communism, the region became the centre of producing low quality, mass produced sparkling wines. Now it is experiencing somewhat of a renaissance. Land prices are shooting up and there are some pretty serious winemakers making some good wines. The proximity to Budapest means it has become a popular Friday night car ride or weekend day trip for locals.
I have had the luxury of visiting many of the wineries in Etyek over the last 11 years on various trips. During that time I have gotten to know some of the vineyard owners and winemakers. What you find in Etyek is a lack of pretence. There are small one man hobby wineries producing natural wines in limited quantity. There are boutique wineries experimenting with sparkling wines. There are even more experimental winemakers pushing the boundaries. And even the emergence of larger scale productions, but they are all authentic about who and what they are.
Etyek isn’t going to make it onto wine maps or WSET syllabus any time soon. But it remains a hidden gem within easy reach of Hungary’s capital. Below I have listed some of the wineries I have been to with a bit of a summary of what you can expect to find there. Towards the bottom of the list, you will see I have also listed those which I have eaten at. If you do try any, let me know how you get on.
Anonym Pince
This is a family run vineyard and winery which produces both still and sparkling wines made from both International (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir) and Hungarian grape varieties (Kékfrankos and Zenit). The vineyard started in 2006 and is approximately 4.5 hectares.
The wines are fresh, light and easy drinking in style, but the star of the show for me is the Frazier Sauvignon blanc. This is a very pleasant floral and mineral expression or the variety, with lime, nettle, and elderflower notes. I am not the only one who thinks the Frazir is something special, it was on the wine list of the Marriot hotel for a while.
Bottles are reasonably priced for what they are, and the scale of the vineyard with a bottle of the Frazir costing around £10, 11.5 Eur or $12.50 (based on July 2024 exchange rates). I have had a number of very pleasant tastings at this winery and its definitely worth checking out at http://www.anonympince.hu
Nádas Borműhely
This is a traditional cellar style winery with a small tasting room in which to try the excellent wines. This winery is a little different to most of the others. The owner here is all about experimentation, pushing the boundaries and producing amazing wines in the process. This is another family run vineyard, and the owner has big ambitions to making a living from winemaking.
The winemaker Szilard, is a charismatic and enthusiastic man, who oozes with passion for viticulture. The choices of wines here is, well, massive! Sparkling and still wines at all quality levels, rose and orange wines and even vinegars and beer! Definitely do not expect to be able to taste everything in a tasting. But you are unlikely to find a boring wine in the line up.
I’d also recommend that if you try a wine, that you don’t make your judgements after the first mouthful. These are generally a little bit more serious and grown up wines. Let them breathe and develop in the glass and you’ll be rewarded with complexity, layers of flavour, and quality.
All this experimentation means that the wines are not necessarily the cheapest you are going to find in Etyek. I’d recommend trying them first, there are a variety of styles, so its best to be sure what you are buying. For me, their Selection Sauvignon Blanc is always an interesting choice. You will find this is one of the few oaked Sauvignon Blancs which isn’t totally overwhelmed by the oak (Hungarian oak is perhaps a bit kinder than French). They also produce a really nice Orange wine which is worth getting hold of, but I’m a bit of sucker for a decent Orange wine!
While they have a website (http://www.https://nadasbormuhely.hu/) it isn’t the best and I’d recommend looking at their facebook page and contacting them via that (https://www.facebook.com/nadasbormuhely/).
Optimus
This is fast becoming one of my favourite wineries in Etyek. This family run vineyard was started in 2019, and has expanded to around 4 hectares, from which it produces both still and sparkling wines. You will find International (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon) and Hungarian (Királyleányka and Zenit) varieties. Sparkling wines are made using a number of different techniques. If you haven’t tried a Pétnat wine, it is well worth buying a bottle here. Of course, traditional method Blanc de Blanc wines are also available.
All the wines are pretty affordable, and price is reflective of the quality generally. I’d recommend trying the Rhine Riesling which has very subtle oak aging as well a benefitting from some time spent on its lees. But honestly, here everything is very quaffable.
The owners here are lovely hospitable couple and the winemaker has always taken the time to chat to me about his wines and share his passion for winemaking. The vibe here is very relaxed and there is a great view towards the Buda Hills from the vineyard which definitely doesn’t hurt either. I’d recommend a trip here. And if you like sparkling wine, I’d suggest a weekend when sparkling wine tastings are available. For more information have a look at www.optimuswinery.com
Vizi Pince
If you want an experience of a traditional wine cellar in Etyek, you cannot go far wrong with Vizi. You may struggle to organise an independent wine tasting here. Although individual visits should be possible, this vineyard is definitely available as part of organised Etyek wine tours. The picture at the top of this post is taken outside Vizi’s cellar. You can see it is located in the traditional cellar row of the town. The cellar dates back to the 1800s, and the wines here are very much made in a traditional style. If you are a fan of natural wines, you will enjoy this cellar.
The owner does not really speak English, but he is very engaging and will talk (if someone can translate) about wine as much as you like! Perhaps the party trick for this winery is you will almost certainly get to try wine direct from the barrel, rather than from the bottle.
Wines here are good examples of traditional styles. Don’t expect well rounded smooth wines, but typical expressions of the grape varieties. If you haven’t tried them, Irsai Olivér and Szürkebarát are Hungarian varieties you can try here. Both you will find are well worth the effort. Irsai Olivér in particular has been described as Hungary’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. So if you like that aromatic style, with perhaps a little less acidity, its worth giving it a go.
I’m not sure about a webpage, but you can find them on facebook here – https://www.facebook.com/ViziPinceszet
Orosz Gyula Family Winery
Another favourite of mine, but a little harder to find information about, so I’ve put it further down the list. This is a family owned winery, with a really nice cellar in which to do wine tastings. The wine styles are traditional, but with a little experimentation. You can expect still and sparkling wines in both International and Hungarian varieties. And the tastings often come with chocolate pairings if that is something of interest to you.
The owner here is very hospitable, but again, unlikely to speak much English, so its often better to do this winery as part of a tour. What he lacks in English, he makes up for in generous servings, good food pairings and Hungarian warmth and hospitality. Of course, as with many wineries, if a younger member of the family does the tour, English is not usually a problem.
It has been a while since I visited here, but I had a number of very drinkable sparkling wines. You can experience both traditional method and carbonated ones as well. Checking the website, prices are reasonable for bottles (July 2024) and tastings are possible by prior arrangement. For more information https://oroszgyula.hu/
Etyeki Kuria Winery
I am a little biased in my views of Etyek towards the smaller producers, so have put Etyeki Kuria Winery a little further down the list. That is probably is somewhat unfair. This winery is probably more famous than the previous three, and produces a greater quantity of wine. You will find it covers 54 hectares, so its on a different scale to some of the vineyards above. It is also possible to find their wines outside of Hungary (the UK definitely has a number of stockists).
A visit here is not going to be sat on wooden benches in a traditional cellar, but something more like visiting a wine bar / restaurant. The range of wines includes: white, rose, orange, red and sparkling. Although some of the wines also come from the Sopron region. Expect the varieties typical of the region, plus a few surprises. The are a range of prices and quality, but expect to pay a little more here for a tasting because of the environment.
But if you’re looking to buy a bottle you could actually pick up an entry level wine here. You will find it to be cheaper than some of the other wineries on the list because of the economies of scale they have. The winery also have a pretty serious commitment to sustainability which is very close to my heart. Expect lighter weight bottles (better for your luggage allowance!), and vegan friendly wines.
I would suggest this for something like a date night or a celebration, but its still very definitely on my list. They offer a number of different packages, food options, and also operate as a wine bar if you’d prefer to buy by the glass rather than do a structured tasting. The menu also has recommended food pairings to help you choose what drink to accompany your meal.
More information at https://etyekikuria.com/
On the subject of food, if you are looking to eat in Etyek, the last three wineries all have a food offering…
Vértes Birtok – pincészet, vinotéka
All of this wine tasting is undoubtedly going to leave you hungry and wanting to try some food pairings from the Hungarian kitchen. Vértes Birtok is definitely going to be somewhere worth visiting if you have worked up an appetite.
While the wines here are very much on par with others you will find in Etyek (think refreshing, crisp and light still white, rose and red), you will be bowled over by the amazing food here. Oh and the view… The winery has an amazing terrace which in the summer gives amazing views across the 3.6 Hectares of vineyards they have. Imagine the fields full of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah varieties on a summer day! The methods used here are described as close-to-nature and biodiverse.
The food I have eaten here has always been of good quality. Whether chicken paprikash or pogácsa cheese scones, the food has a home cooked vibe. Light bites are also available if you want to enjoy the terrace with a quaffable glass of wine and some tapas, rather than a full gourmet experience.
More information and pictures of that amazing terrace at http://vertesbirtok.hu
Buzál-Mórocza Pincészet
Winemaking in Etyek very much owes its origins to German families who settled in the area – Swabians. As you enter the town you will see signs in both Hungarian and German – Etyek and Edeck which gives a nod to its cultural heritage. The Buzál-Mórocza Pincészet is run by such a family. I have visited on multiple occasions on tours. While, the younger family members speak English, the parents speak only German and Hungarian.
Despite the language barriers you cannot fail to feel the warmth of their hospitality. Beáta, the owner and cook, prepares some phenomenal food which is worth visiting for. And it doesn’t come much fresher. Wild Boar which goes into the stews is often hunted by the family in the area around the winery.
I would say the focus here is very much on food, hospitality and washing it down with some very palatable wine. Of course, the vineyard also has guest accommodation, so if you did decide you wanted to stay here that is a possibility. I have been here a number of times and am now recognised as a frequent visitor.
The wines here are International and Hungarian varieties, and I have brought various bottles back with me to the UK following visits. I would say price and quality are fair, they are mostly simple, refreshing, light wines which you might use as a house wine for a party or BBQ.
My latest look for a website did not yield a result which was reliable enough to share, but here is their facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/buzalmorocza
Debreczeni Pince
For a totally different food experience, I would recommend the Debreczeni Pince. Despite being based in the Etyek-Budai region, this winery actually allows you to enjoy wines from both this region and the Szekszard region, famed for its stunning red wines, as well.
Its owners are also skilled in the preparation of food which pairs with their wines. Here you can sample Hungarian fare which is less touristy (think less goulash, more rich soups with paprika sausages sliced into them). The host, Kálmán is what could be described as somewhat of a perfectionist. And so will want to ensure you have the best food experience possible. He has his own style, a great sense of humour, and is very hospitable. I have had several very positive experiences here.
Wines here are in the Etyek style, but you will also discover some which are more divergent. For something a little different, I recommend the off-dry Sejtelmes. This is made from the Sárga muscatály grape variety, it is a great accompaniment for a sponge or fruit dessert. It is also very affordable, but dangerously drinkable. Fortunately, its only 10% ABV so you can have a second glass! The winery also has a beautiful rose garden, which quite frequently gets used for weddings.
I would strongly recommend booking in advance, as they do have events on. More information at https://debreczenipince.hu/
Wine tours
It is entirely possible to get to Etyek using public transport, although buses are infrequent, and obviously by car, but another option is to join an organised tour. I don’t recommend tours companies I have not used personally. This tour company I have used 15+ times, so I’m very comfortable recommending them. They are City and Wine.
They organise both morning and afternoon tours on a minibus from the centre of Budapest. You will visit 2-3 wineries with either lunch or dinner and return transport (very useful if you buy several bottles and need to get them back to the city). The guides are knowledgeable, and they have relationships with many of the Etyek vineyards. All of the vineyards above are ones I have visited on these tours. Although some may no longer be on their list as it does change form time to time.
For more information see: https://cityandwine.hu/en Bonus tip: They have a sister company in Vienna if you are planning on combining your trip to Budapest with a visit to the Austrian capital.
If you do visit any of the vineyards above or go on a City and Wine Tour, let me know how you get on. And as always, keep exploring this beautiful planet we live on, one glass at a time!