Brabourne Vineyard, Kent
I am a huge fan of English wines, and increasingly the good sparkling wines produced in the South of England are beating Champagnes in blind tastings. One of the things which makes England such an interesting place to explore vineyards in is the sheer diversity you can find. There are some mid-sized producers who are focused on turning out consistent high quality cuvée wines, and some tiny producers making less than 10,000 bottles a year.
Brabourne is a small producer located not far from Ashford in Kent. The owners are in many ways accidental winemakers, falling into wine making having explored other options for using the land which came with their newly acquired property. But what a happy accident this was! They are punching seriously above their weight in terms of the quality of their wines. This is partly, I suspect, as a consequence of being brave enough to be very much led by making the type of wine which best suits the grape in each harvest.
On arrival, you will walk into what I would describe as a garden vineyard. Vines are interspersed among grass and the oozes relaxation from the get go. This is, however, no ordinary tasting. For a start when you book a tasting, you will be the only group on site meaning it is a truly personalised experience. There is good news for drivers as well – no charge for non-drinkers, as well as a good range of non-alcoholic beverages on the menu. The experience can also be enhanced with a cheese platter – which I would recommend.
The first glass of wine was a very delicious classic cuvée. The age on this wine was evident in the brioche, almondy notes and I’d say this was a glass of wine which would have many entry level Champagnes quaking in their boots. These people mean business, their wines are the real deal. This glass was consumed while exploring the grounds and getting a brief, but fascinating, history of the vineyard.
After the short tour was completed, the remaining wines were served. The pace of service was relaxed and the owner, Hester, was happy to chat, explain the wines; and as a host my experience was that she got the balance perfectly right between attentive and instrusive. The accompanying cheese was perfect and Hester explained had been curated by a friend who was a cheese expert – you could tell!
The line up included another sparkling, this time a blanc de noirs. I really admired the fact that this wine wasn’t afraid of showcasing the true expression of the grape, with some subtle strawberry, cherry and red fruit hints. It benefits (in my humble opinion) from being extra brut. The still wines are equally well crafted – a chardonnay to turn around the ABC (Anything but Chardonnay) crowd which showcases the heights Chardonnay can reach without the need for oaking. The rosé is subtle with some strawberry, and even watermelon on the palette as well as a nice minerality. The white Pinot Noir is equally sophisticated with fleshy fruit notes and floral hints. Finally, the vermouth has an elegant nose, and satisfying flavour while remaining smooth and creamy.
All the wines are the real deal and have been well made by someone who really knows their craft. In fact, the whole experience just felt really well executed. At the end any wines bought are 10% discounted, so that also means your wallet is slightly happier with you when you get home. And I highly recommend that you buy some of these wines. At £35, the classic cuvée is well worth the money in my view. But the other wines also represent great expressions of the grape, and I wouldn’t be sorry to serve any of them.
The best bit… the whole experience was just £30pp with the cheese platter. I highly recommend paying a visit. I brought a bottle back with me and opened it to celebrate an occasion and it was just as good as it was drinking it in the vineyard on a sunny day. If you do pay a visit, do let them know you saw the recommendation here. Kent is one of the work horses of English wine making, with plenty of choice for all tastes. I really hope you get a chance to visit Brabourne and drink some of their fabulous wines. And as always, keep exploring this beautiful planet we live on, one glass at a time!