Hungarian Wine Challenge – Fata winery, Badacsonytomaj
Like lots of people, I love a challenge! In September 2024, I set myself the challenge, while visiting Hungary, of travelling to multiple wine regions, tastings, festivals and other wine events in order to find some of the best wines in the country. The challenge started on 1 September and finished towards the end of the month.
Along the journey there were a number of places I visited. Among them was the Fata winery in Badacsonytomaj
About the Northern Balaton wines
Winemaking in the Northern Balaton consists of around 3,500 hectares of vines, making up 3 different wine regions. Wine making here can be traced back to Roman times, but in recent times has only really started to produce quality wines in the last 20 or so years. The region is predominantly a white wine region, with a few red and rosé wines produced as well. By far the most planted grape here is Olaszrizling and consequently many Olaszrizling wines can be found here.
Many of the plots in Badacsony are owned by small winemakers, some of whom of bringing back wines made with indigenous Hungarian varieties. The region has the benefit of the natural lake, as well as the volcanic hills both of which influence the wines, but also make it extremely pleasant to travel through.
About Fata winery
The winery is located about 15-20 minutes walk from the railway station which makes it fairly easy walk, although it is slightly uphill. The family here have been producing wines since around 1927, and have a very interesting line up of wines you are unlikely to find anywhere else.
I arrived mid-afternoon and managed to sit outside looking at the stunning view of the hills while I sipped on delicious wine. The first few wines were light, easy drinking, somewhat minerally and refreshing in style. However, if you think Badacsony is all about patio wines, you are very much mistaken. The Kéknyelű wines were complex, layered, somewhat spicy and had long finishes with almond and herby notes and a somewhat oily texture. This combination was almost like a light Christmas cake, and was really enjoyable.
The tasting was well managed. The server was attentive and explained the wines, the varieties and techniques well. Between glasses he disappeared back into the building and left me to enjoy the views in solitude, appearing seemingly on cue when the glass needed a new wine. For the last wine, which was a red Cabernet Sauvignon he invited me to join him inside. This was a very light Cabernet which was unlike the very heavy full-bodied styles usually available in the UK. It wasn’t my favourite in the line up, but I could definitely see a place for it in the market.
A slightly unique twist here was some wines made with fruits and other additions. Firstly, a wine which was a mix of grapes and elderflower, which was very refreshing and pleasant. Then their Ürmös wine, which is made with a secret recipe of 10 herbs and 7 spices. This was Christmas in a bottle. As a result of the herbs and spices it had a lovely warmth to it and a nice length finish. There is of course some debate about whether these two wines are actually wine – by law in the EU wine can only be made with grapes. However, while they are not designed to compete in blind tastings with Bordeaux and Burgundies, they are great fun and certainly pretty unique.
Clearly the view here is a big sell, as is the change to taste some varieties unique to the region, as well as the fruit and herb added wines. The scale of this winery makes you feel like you are really experiencing something that very few people will experience and the quality of the tasting was very good. At the end I felt very relaxed as I walked (down hill this time) back towards the station.
I really wish I’d been able to carry some wines, as I’d have liked to have bought some, but I’m confident I will return here at some point. At the time of writing (April 2025), a 6 wine tasting is still under £10 which I think represents great value. Bottles are not going to break the bank either.
So thank you to the Fata winery for their great wines and hospitality. If you want to know more about them you can find out more on their website: https://www.fatabadacsony.hu/. If you do visit, let me know! And in the meantime, keep exploring this beautiful planet we live on, one glass at a time!