Hungarian Wine Challenge – Sauska, Villány
Like lots of people, I love a challenge! In September 2024, I set myself the challenge, while visiting Hungary, of travelling to multiple wine regions, tastings, festivals and other wine events in order to find some of the best wines in the country. The challenge started on 1 September and finished towards the end of the month.
Along the journey there were a number of places I visited. Among them was the Sauska cellar and restaurant in Villány.
About the winery
Go to any high end wine bar in Budapest, or in most of Hungary and there is one name which you’re going to keep seeing, and that is Sauska. Sauska are one of the big boys in Hungary, with production on a much larger scale than most of the other wineries on the wine challenge. They also make some high end wines which has earned them a place on many exclusive wine menus.
It might be fair to say that Sauska is a story of two halves (based on their bases in Villány and Tokaj) , but I might actually suggest a story of three thirds – Red wines in Villány, and both sweet and sparkling wines in Tokaj. Look at any high end celebration sparkling wine list in a Hungarian restaurant and there is usually a bottle of Sauska Brut available. In many cases a Sauska sparkling rosé as well! These are go to wines – perhaps one might suggest the Hungarian equivalent of Moët & Chandon or Tattinger.
But Sauska is no one trick pony – they also have some very high end red wines, and that’s where their vineyards in VillányBut Sauska is no one trick pony – they also have some very high end red wines, and that’s where their vineyards in Villány come in. Villány is one of the significant red wine regions in Hungary boasting some of the best full bodied, complex and interesting wines, especially from the Cabernet Franc grape. Sauska produce a number of what might be described a Bordeaux blend wine at varying quality levels.
And these cuvées range from entry level (Sauska Cuvée 13 which retails for around £8) through mid-level wines (Sauska 7, which retails for around £22 a bottle) up to high end wines (Sauska 5, which retails for an astonishing £105 a bottle). If you thought Hungarian wine was cheap plonk – you were very very wrong!
In addition to the sparkling wines, which you can find in Brut, extra dry and extra brut styles, there are of course the Tokaj sweet wines. Here you have options from Late Harvest, through to Aszú at both 5 and 6 puttonyos, and an Aszú Essencia. If that wasn’t enough, there are a number of single varieties available in both white and red styles.
The sites in Villány have been producing wines since around 2006 and the Tokaj sites since around 2009. The wines have become very popular and it is clear from the space in which they are produced and the rather plush restaurant at Sauska that they clearly have made some money in the process. The restaurant itself is featured in the Michelin guide and serves some amazing food offerings.
I took the decision to walk to Sauska in the 35 degree heat from the centre of Villány. The walk was around 25 – 30 minutes from my accommodation and by the time I arrived I didn’t exactly look like their typical customer! Fortunately, they were extremely welcoming, and provided me with some nicely chilled sparkling mineral water which helped cool me down. This was quickly followed up with their signature Sparkling Brut. The Brut is a standard throughout Hungary and while its not necessarily in premium champagne territory, it drinks very well. Lovely crisp acidity from the Furmint grape, and a nice mousse.
The tasting continued with a mix of white and red wines. The last two red wines were tasted on a walk around the cellar complex. The closest thing I can compare the cellar to is how I imagine the Vatican archives to be. Perfectly temperature controlled with glass divisions. Of course in this particular cellar are not religious treasures, but rather viticultural ones. Rows of wine barrels abound.
The final wine was a late harvest wine from Tokaj. When I mentioned that I was doing the wine challenge, they did actually add a further glass of Aszú to the list which was very decent of them. The service was, as you would expect from a Michelin guide restaurant, impeccible. I was looked after attentively, despite my dishevelled appearance on arrival. The host talked to me at length about the wines and answered all my questions with a good depth of knowledge.
Overall, I thought Sauska was something a bit special to treat myself to. The tasting was reasonable, but not cheap, and comparably more than most of the other tastings on the wine challenge. In terms of the wines, they are well made and high quality. Maybe a little too well made. Perhaps there is a just a little bit of a trade off in terms of character when you’re aiming for perfection. Some of the things that make a wine stand out are actually minor imperfections. These wines were technically perfect, but maybe just a little predictable. But given how good the wines are, its hard not to forgive that.
I highly recommend Sauska and the restaurant if you want to do something a bit special. If you want to book a wine tasting experience at Sauska, I find the website a little confusing, so the link which seems to work best (May 2025) is this one. If you do pop into Sauska, I believe they offer transport – or you can walk. Just perhaps don’t do it in 35 degree heat! Let me know if you do a tasting. And in the meantime, keep exploring this beautiful planet we live on, one glass at a time!